Insights From Out Of Town

Aug. 4, 2002

By Minerva Canto

The Orange County Register

JALPA, MEXICO — Sometimes the best part of a trip is the unexpected treasure found in a town outside the main destination.

During my trip to Zacatecas, I would have preferred to stay in the city, but I was scheduled to go into the countryside for a close-up look at the grim situation facing small towns sucked nearly dry of jobs and working-age Mexicans.

The brown terrain that so repelled me at first soon gives way to lush green hills and mountains, which has a calming effect on me as I drive down the nearly empty two-lane highway. I stop at a roadside cafe, where I buy three tacos and a soda for less than a large espresso drink would cost at home. In less than three hours, I'm in Jalpa, whose neighboring ranches dot the vibrant green rugs blanketing the earth with crops of agave (used to make tequila) and guava. I see industriousness aplenty, but workers packing tomatoes into crates tell me it's still not enough to employ all the people who need jobs.

"You like arts and crafts?" Jaime, the mayor, eagerly asks me as we take a break from touring the area he governs, which includes the city of Jalpa and several outlying towns.

"Of course, I do," I reply.

"Well, I'm going to take you to a place where artisans are creating clothing using indigenous techniques."

We return to Jalpa and arrive at a large industrial building. The mayor tells me he helped start the program, to create new job opportunities for women whose husbands and relatives had been forced north when they couldn't find jobs near home. Outside the building, a woman sits under a canopy, her fingers deftly guiding a brightly threaded needle through a large piece of white cotton cloth. Inside, about 30 women work at sewing machines or cutting tables.

They eagerly pull out their completed handiwork when I request to see it. Skirts, short ones and long ones. Shirts, sleeveless, short-sleeved and long-sleeved. Pants, long ones and midcalf. The clothing is simple, the needlework designs consisting of bright threads sewn into colorful shapes of flowers and geometric shapes. There are also linens. Pillowcases, place mats and napkins. I can tell that many hours of work went into creating these pieces.

I go into a small room to try on a matching skirt and top. They fit beautifully, and I decide to buy them, wishing I'd brought more cash to buy more things. This is a grass-roots operation, and credit cards are not accepted.

Still, the women, who hope to earn a living from their fledgling business, are happy I'm buying something. One steps forward and asks: "What are the latest fashions in the United States? You know, we'd like to export our products there and we want to make sure they are fashionable, that people will want them." I'm no fashion maven but I explain what I can as the women listen intently.

During my three-hour drive back to Zacatecas, it occurs to me that my experience has gone beyond visiting tourist sites and restored churches. If only briefly, I've witnessed the industriousness and hope of the people of Zacatecas.